Sunday 16 January 2011

Mind the Gap

We all trooped down to the Farmers Market yesterday; me, my wife, our little baby and bloody hell was it cold. The wind was cutting and we all froze, except for little M who was wrapped up in enough layers of insulation to survive a nuclear winter.

She, of course, managed to sleep through the entire sorry trip.

Despite bracing the North London elements we where greeted with virtually nothing for sale in what is usually a very impressive market. One of the veg stallholders had put up a large sign blaming the early arrival of the Hungry Gap that, if it was true, would make it very early indeed.

The Hungry Gap is the month or so between the end of the winter brassicas and the start of the early spring crops like broad beans, it falls around March time and usually means that there is little of nothing at the market except for some sorry looking potatoes, rather tired root veg and Kale.

Lots of Kale.

Now I like Kale, in fact I like Kale a lot, but sometimes it needs a little kick to lift it and that is exactly what I did when I served it with a couple of thick, fatty and juicy pork chops last night.

The result?

A wonderfully, messy, yummy, spiky mix which acts as both vegetable and sauce and goes perfectly with the fatty pork.

Fry off some peeled apple segments in butter, just enough to give them a little colour. Throw in some garlic.

Add a splash of brandy. If you want to be a kitchen show off, you can flame it. Always impressive and always makes you feel sadly chef-y.

Add the washed Kale, having removed the tough central stalks.

Season.

Add a splash of water to let it all steam, or chicken stock if you have any.

Clamp on the lid and let it steam until the Kale is tender.

Before serving… stir in a spoonful of mustard (your choice…English, Dijon, Whole grain doesn’t really matter) and another knob of butter.

Recheck for seasoning.

The apples should have fallen apart and made a rather lovely, potent, mustardy sauce with the irony Kale… perfect for fatty pork.

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